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The Freewalkers Guide to the Milford Track: Day Three: I hate this place, Part 2

As I was trying to convince myself that the constant downpour was really nothing but a drizzle, we came to the footbridge I had crossed yesterday. The bone-dry rocks were now covered with a raging river at least three feet deep. I shook my head at my Milford naiveté, and gladly used the bridge to cross the hidden river. Ten minutes into the switchbacks, we were too hot. Awkwardly, we sheltered under a slightly less-wet tree, and quickly peeled off our under-layers while attempting to stay dry.

Once redressed, and only slightly damp we continued on. Our hoods were up, making any conversation impossible. Our heads bumped the grey clouds hanging on the roof of the sky that dangled tendrils of rain. All I could hear was the constant pounding of my heart mixed with the irrepressible gasps of air that my lungs sought. I blinked in shock. Two switchbacks ago, we had actually left the trees. All about us was nothing but rock and low scrub. From obscured peaks, transitory waterfalls cascaded in myriad streams down to the valley below. The wind had the voices of long lost gods and spirits on it, each speaking the story of long forgotten memories in a multilayered omnipresent roar.

My boots splashed in and out of inches deep standing water. Rain coursed and swirled in impossible physics defying loops, vertically soaring out of chasms and soaking in diagonal, perpendicular, and parallel lines of moisture. In front of us, a stone cairn loomed out of the mist. We were on the ridgeline of the pass. The distant toothpicks were the trees of early morning; the slight small teardrop of water, the expanse of Lake Mintaro I had watched ducks at yesterday. Despite the sense of accomplishment, there was no stopping for any sort of photo. The voices had become a primal yell that pushed us about the slick rocks like pawns. The mild drops of rain had become needle-sharp ice crystals that rattled against every surface aggressively.

A mere ten feet higher or so from us, snow supplanted ice in a fast falling blanket of white. I staggered over to the point marked with a sign “12 second drop”. I edged close to the sign, fumbling to close my jacket vents. The drop was void of color and all perspective, save the wind that rushed from it. Even though I could not perceive anything from the “drop”, I eased away carefully, so that I would not accidentally slip into it and test its depths with all of my senses. Once back on the ridgeline, I signaled my wife to head directly to the warming hut, and followed close behind her while I struggled to get my baklava over my face. After being battered along the last section of trail, we came to the improbable structure, and navigated the double-door into the building.

Inside several of our companions sat, all looking bedraggled and tired, but in various stages of getting ready to head back out on the trail. My wife slumped on to a convenient bench, and began trying to make adjustments to her wardrobe to address which items of clothes were too wet to continue wearing. While she wasn’t as wet as some of the people there, I was leery about her – or I standing around in the warming hut for a length of time. The hut gas ring was unlit, and as a result, the “warming” hut was really a cold hut. While it did shelter everyone from the wind and rain/sleet, its ambient temperature was probably no warmer than twenty-five degrees.

Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 at 09:46AM by Registered CommenterLast Adventurer in | Comments14 Comments

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Reader Comments (14)

Alright, I'm convinced - I have to go to NZ!

--Carpe Carp!
December 29, 2006 | Unregistered Commenterraptorlicious_three-claw
See, I knew that bridge would come in handy!!!!
December 29, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterFALLEN
Wow, real interesting stuff, for just being a standard bog-march. Did you guys have any hypo issues?
December 29, 2006 | Unregistered Commenterderektheclimber
I mentioned a couple posts that I liked a sentence; I just wanted to point this one out too as particularly powerful:

"The wind had the voices of long lost gods and spirits on it, each speaking the story of long forgotten memories in a multilayered omnipresent roar."

Again, nicely done.
December 29, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterTruWriter
Agreed. I like the sound of that, makes me think of several climbs/hikes in the weather that I've done. Way more poetic than what I could think of!!! :)

RE: Derektheclimber; I bet hypo could be a problem in this situation, don't you think?
December 29, 2006 | Unregistered Commentermreiger
Totally, guys, totally.
December 29, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterMURSEMCLAUGHS
Wow. Sounds really, really cold. I definately am not sure about that whole deal. But kudos to doing it!
January 3, 2007 | Unregistered Commentermurrietamadness
Does anyone here know anything about a natural repallant for sandflies? any help would be great. I'll post this further up too.
January 3, 2007 | Unregistered Commentercurious_g
I know in the US if you take lavender pills, that keeps away mosquitoes. Never been to NZ so I have no idea how it works. But I think it would.
January 3, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterlakewanderer
Lavender? Like the herb?
January 3, 2007 | Unregistered Commentercurious_g
Not sure its an herb, but yeah, that's the plant I'm talking about.
January 3, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterlakewanderer
I've been all over the world and the best bug repellant for my money is Avon Skin So Soft Oil. I learned it from a buddy of mine that was in the Gulf and had to deal with another type of bug and if it worked for him, I decided to try it and it worked for me. Very good stuff.
January 3, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterultfreewalker
2 things:
1) Avon makes you way oily. Perhaps that's why it works; I personally don't like it.
2) And I'm not sure that it organic.
January 3, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterdragonista
Not sure they meant "organic" just natural. In any case, I heard garlic works really well. You might try that. Or perhaps try your local camping store, in addition to what's listed here!
January 3, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterdelamarigold

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